Abraham Moon Merino Wool & Tartan Fall Fabric

Abraham Moon has woven at Netherfield Mill in Guiseley, Yorkshire since 1837 — one of the last fully vertical mills in Britain, where blending, spinning, dyeing, weaving and finishing all happen on a single site. The plain weave carries a fine fleck through the ground, so a solid reads as texture up close. The twill is the quietest of the four and the easiest to wear as a full suit. The herringbone is the one clients keep returning to, the chevron small enough to pass as a solid at conversational distance. The jacketing is where the patterns live: Black Watch, Royal Stewart, Hunting Stewart, Gordon, Mackenzie, Farquharson and Camel Thompson among the tartans, alongside glen plaid, glen check, windowpane, tattersall, puppytooth, houndstooth and gingham. All woven to a more compact construction, which softens the hand and holds each line clean against its ground.

At 360 to 430 grams these are fall cloths rather than deep-winter ones — enough body to hold a drape through October and November in New York, without the weight of a heavy flannel. Merino takes structure well, which is what matters in a fully canvassed coat: the canvas and the cloth move together rather than against each other. Drafted to your proportions and made entirely by hand by one master tailor, for clients of all gender identities.

METRIC WEIGHT: 360–430 gr/mt

COMPOSITION: 100% Merino Lambswool