It's the season for custom overcoats
While we obviously believe that a custom suit is a beautiful thing …
…the reality is that you're probably not going to wear it as much as a custom overcoat, particularly if you live in NYC.
We've certainly noticed that custom overcoats are gaining traction lately; they're becoming a bigger part of our business every year. And it only makes sense. The same principles apply between suiting and coats: if you have scoliosis, or you aren't an "off the rack" type of fit, or you want much more of a say in all the design elements, then you are going to want a custom overcoat, just as you would want a custom suit.
Whatever your reasoning, we can help.
We've certainly noticed that custom overcoats are gaining traction lately; they're becoming a bigger part of our business every year. And it only makes sense. The same principles apply between suiting and coats: if you have scoliosis, or you aren't an "off the rack" type of fit, or you want much more of a say in all the design elements, then you are going to want a custom overcoat, just as you would want a custom suit. Whatever your reasoning, we can help.
There are a few key differences between our custom suiting and custom overcoat-making processes. For one, unlike the suiting process, the overcoat process has to be bespoke all the way. This means at least one muslin (test garment) will be made, sometimes two. We fit more loosely in an overcoat to allow for you to layer under it. This is a really collaborative process -- we talk through the whole thing together, and then you get to test your muslin fit before we proceed.
Often, design choices for overcoats are even more specialized than in the suiting process. For some people the idea of even more choice can be daunting. Never fear. You will be working directly with Melissa to design your outerwear, and a custom sketch of the design will help to clarify things even further.
To help get you thinking on what might be right for you, here are some different types of overcoats that are pretty popular these days:
1) Covert Coat, which is usually pretty short and pretty slimly cut. Historically a riding/hunting coat.
2) Polo Coat/Ulster Coat is probably what you think of when we say “Brooks Brothers” (double breasted, self belt).
3) Macintosh is usually a rain coat, and it was invented by a chemist!
4) Trench coat (what you think of when we say “Burberry”): was actually invented by Burberry for military use in WWI.
5) Chesterfield - longer length, dressier, single or double breasted historically.
6) Crombie - this is what Cary Grant wore. Simple, single-breasted coat.
7) Pea Coat - 3/4 length, double breasted, and began as a standard issue US Navy coat.
8) British Warm - originally created as a warmer version of the trench, but has less buckles and military looking detail. Often done in wool melton fabric (Abraham Moon makes this in great colors!).
9) Safari Jacket/Utility/Chore - falls at the hip and features lots of pockets. Often not as heavy as some of these other types.
WHAT ABOUT FABRIC?
You may be familiar with some of 4500+ suiting fabrics, but overcoat fabrics are even more amazing. From amazing and wearable to super luxurious, let’s walk through some options:
WOOL
You know it from suiting. It can even be in a heartier iteration called melton (boiled wool), and yes, this fabric is used frequently as the under-collar in suiting.
Fiber is breathable but warm and has moisture wicking properties which makes for a durable coat fabric. Woolen and wool-blend fabrics are more all-purpose and heartier than coats in other fabrics.
Styling: maybe a utility jacket with patch pockets or a classic peacoat, really could work in any length or shape.
CASHMERE
A near perfect fiber, has a luxurious reputation (cue cha-ching aka it is expensive).
Cashmere fiber is quite lightweight yet warm, perfect for coating. Requires a little more care than a hearty wool melton fabric.
Styling: great for sophisticated designs in mid-longer length.
ALPACA SURI
Super super luxurious fiber with luster (comes from the most rare of the Camelids, the Suri itself). Requires gentle care. We mean the coat, not the Camelid; we can’t speak to camel-care. Very lightweight fiber, so you won’t feel like the little brother in A Christmas Story who can’t put his arms down.
-Styling: Probably best in a Chesterfield, Crombie, or other longline style.
