The first things I look for in a men's custom suit
Having fit and designed men's tailored clothing for the last 6+ yrs, I’ve learned a few things in terms of what to look for in custom suits to ensure quality. Indeed there are a few things that I think every guy should know before getting a custom suit.
1) Handmade Construction is Better for Longevity
Men, especially those who travel in their suits, tend to wear them pretty hard, as we say in the trade. As such, handmade custom suits are the best option because they nearly always hold up better over time.
What does handmade mean? Basically, it means that the most important foundations of the suit are stitched in by hand: Armhole, shoulder seam, collar band, undercollar, and the interior canvas. It also means that your pattern and fabric are cut out by hand, not by a laser cutter or machine cutter. The details are also stitched by hand — buttonholes, pick stitching, and lapel tacking. These details will each look slightly unique (if you’re really looking closely), and that is GOOD!
It's much faster (and less expensive) to attach all these parts of a jacket together by machine. And initially the client will not always be able to tell the difference between hand- and machine-made garments. But I cannot tell you how many men have come to me over the years saying that the canvas in their handmade suits is much more flexible and molds to their body, and that movement and wear is better with this type of construction as compared to machine-made.
2) A little understanding of cloth
Find a tailor who can explain clearly where they source their fabric from and why. A deep understanding of the materials being used is so valuable when it comes to assessing the longevity and quality of a suit.
You should also know that while important, the so called ‘super’ fabric numbers are not the be all and end all when it comes to the quality of a material. You have to take into account hand feel, drape and weave also. Even if a cloth is a lower ‘super’ number, it could be better quality than a higher ‘super’ number based on the way it was woven, who it was woven by, and the finishing process.
3) Be realistic about your body and therefore the fit of your suit.
We all (or at least most of us) fluctuate when it comes to our weight. It’s just how it is. This obviously has ramifications when it comes to buying a custom suit. I see so many male clients who come to me extremely confident of where their body is going to be in a couple months, and eager to a get a tighter fit to match this thinner version of their future selves. My suggestion is don’t do that. From what I’ve seen it rarely works out that way and the client is left disappointed.
My suggestion instead is to come in for a fitting when you are at your median weight, or close to it. A tailored fit is great, but you do not want anything that’s too TIGHT. It will leave you no room to live your life and fluctuate as we naturally do. A quality suit lies in the ease, something that makes you look slim but does NOT feel constricting.